Liberty Ridge- Rainer Training - Week 2

So last week wasnt perfect, I did get in my two Stepper workouts which are what everthing else is buliding from.  Both Days I did 30 minutes on level 5 with a 45lbs pack.  My Average HR was 160 (84%) with a Max HR of 171 (90%).  What was interesting was this Monday Week two at 35 minutes, Level 5 with a 45lbs Pack, My Average HR was only 149 (78%) with a Max HR of 161 (84%).  TO me this shows one of two things.  Because I rested on Sunday, I was able to handle more WORK with less affect, or because of my increased activity my heart is able to more easily keep up and allow more WORK with less affect.  Either way it is a good result.  I was planning on upping my level for this thursday to level 6 but I may leave it at 5 to test my Idea.

As I write this I am sitting in Denver Airport leaving for Salt Lake City for a few days.  I got a hotel with a decent Gym and should be able to improvise some decent workouts.

As far as logistics go, I will begin to attain the necessary permit to climb Liberty Ridge in Mid June.  I have signed up for a cravasse rescue course in Boulder the 18th of next month.  

Liberty Ridge - Rainer Training - Day 1 / Week 1

Made day one after a rough weekend of hiking and climbing.  It was supposed to be Monday but I made that my rest day cause my sleep schedule was out of wack...  Below is my week one schedule.  My goal is to work up to 90 Mins on the stepper with a full pack several days a week by the end of the 12 weeks and have 1 - 2 long himes with several thousand feet of elevation gain with a pack.  Any comments would be great...

14th Annual Southfork Ice Festival

Fred and Andrea and I hit the Road at 3am to head to Cody.  The weather was beautiful and the roads were clear.  Fred drove the first shift and I drove the second.  With The exception of some gas and a quick stop at "Hells Half Acre" it was a nonstop drive.

Hells Half Acre

At 11am we pulled into Cody and it looked like I had never left.  I hadnt been there in almost a year but thats the Beauty of a place like that, it never changes.  We stopped off at Sierra Trading Post and met up with Shawn Gregory.  He was joining us for the climb.  We drove up the South Fork Valley, a place I truely believe to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

The South Fork Valley

We found the Drainage and we began the Hike.  A relatively easy 30 minutes later we were at Broken Hearts.  Fred lead it and we did a few Laps on a top rope.  The second pitch was right there but for time sake we decided to stick to the first picth.  In Joel Anderson style, I stayed at the top and took some photos from the top of the pitch.

Fred with a nice lead

Shawn topping out

After a few laps, we quickly headed back to town to watch Arron Mulkeys slideshow.  We made it to the auditorium just in time to announce the clinics.  We enjoyed two slide shows, had a few beers and went to bed.  Tomorrow we would go to schoolhouse and try and get up 3 pitches.

The next morning after filling my Thermos at my friend Lydia Thomas's Coffee shop, Beta, we headed out.  We got there what appeared to be second and headed out.  We were nearly to the top when 4 other guys showed up to spoil the fun.  then 4 more showed up to really make it a party.  We ended up just hanging on the 1st pitch and doing some laps.  We still had a blast and it was more about good friends than Ice climbing at this point.  

Andrea Rotz on the steep climb to Schoolhouse.

Joel Anderson on P1 of Schoolhouse

Group Photo (from Left) Shawn Gregory, ("Schoolhouse" in the background), Fred Caloggero, Andrea Rotz, Ben Smith, Dustin Smoot, and Joel Anderson.

Later that night we watched a great slideshow then mingled a bit with some of the climbers I have learned so much from over the years that have become friends.   It was great to see everyone and hear about there climbs.  Then we headed to the Silver Doller.  My Buddy Brad Sperry came down for the night to Hang out.  We had a blast.  I headed out around Midnight cause I was getting up early to climb.  The next morning after seeing where other groups were going, we decided on "Smoked Turkey".  An easy approach with WI 3-5.  After we got out to the Parking lot we thought we followed the directions and a trail but realized whene we were WAY up in a drainage, that is was the wrong drainage.  We were one off.  We followed the tracks of Some other group who got lost.  

I learned 3 Lessons on this Hike:  

1. Never follow footprints to a climb
2. Always carry a map and get some direction
3. Dont make redbull and whiskey your nightcap before a Climb day.

The drive home was unbelievable.  Fred Drove most of the snow time home, we were home around 2am.  I was up at 7 and at work by 8am the following morning.  It was quite a weekend.  

The 14th Annual Southfork Ice Festival ws a success.   I have been coming for years now and it always proves a good time with Good people.  

Pre Training Hike

Jordan and I decided to ditch out on Quandary Peak due to inclimate weather and hike locally.  Fred told me about a Hike near Elk Medows which was 9.5 miles and about 2000' in elevation gain.  We brought Husker and backpacks.  We made it to the top 4.7 miles in 3 hours, then back down in an hour and a half.  The hike down was a little dificult cause the trail was melting.  We carried our snowshoes on our backs the whole way.  I thought it was a great Pre-training Hike.  After the Cody Ice Festival I will begin training for Mount Rainer in June.

Lake CIty Ice Festival

So even with the 2 feet of snow that fell along the front range, Jeremy Stocks and myself decided to give it a shot and drive out to Lake City for the weekend and the Epic Lake City Ice Festival.  We headed out about 4pm.  From Denver and stopped for a few beers and dinner in Gunnison at the trough.  We made it by about 9pm.  Met at Patrick Kellys house.  Patrick is one of the organizers of this event and Id like to give a big thanks for letting us crash.  We Hung out with a few of patricks friends Lucky, Tom and Erik. Erik is attempting to be the 2nd person to snowboard all of CO's 14'ers, Please check out: 14er snowboard project  We had a few beers then went to sleep to blasting music.

Woke up to a beautiful morning and a blamy -8 degrees.  We made breakfast and headed over to the Ice.  Patrick had already been over setting everything up.  THey got a Fire going, Played some music, and had some Hot food.

When we arrived, Maddog was hanging the screws for the speed competition.  THe competitions were 20$ to enter each with a top rope and a lead comp.  We soon realized a 70 meter rope was pushing it to top rope most of these climbs.  We did find a small corner to set up and do some laps.

Photo of another climber.  Maya? maybe.  We chatted, turns out we do a similar job for work which was strange.

Also check out The Winning Run on the speed Lead Comp.  

Patrick Kelley topping out on the Lead Comp.

Climbers and spectators.

left hand side of icefall

There was a nead mixed line Jeremy was itching to get on.  Unfortunately, there was no way to protect the rock portion of the climb, the rock is to flakey and chossy to place gear.  So he decided to top rope it and Killed it.

This was definitely one of the best Ice Festivals I have ever been too.  Make sure you check it out next year.  Ill be there.  Rumor has it a Hostle type accomidation will be available.    We headed out the next morning due to an overindulgence on my part of the local spirits.  We stopped for Breakfast in Gunnison at the coffee shop.  Ate a slammin Burrito and ran into another climber from the festival, Lindsay.  We chatted a bit and welcomed her to come climb out our way and left.  

Please check out the other Youtube Videos and http://www.lakecityiceclimbs.com/